Viele Parker Punkte für St. Antony
Weingut St. Antony – Nierstein am Rhein
Felix Peters has probably bottled his best series of wines for St Antony, so far. The 2015 Rieslings, namely the crus, are outstanding. Even the reds like Pinot Noir, but especially Blaufränkisch, become better and better. With all of these top wines in mind, the off-dry Brudersberg Riesling under the Heyl zu Herrnsheim brand is a bit disappointing, lacking the character and precision of the dry wines. Is off-dry Riesling just an accessory, here?
Due to the dryness of the 2015 summer, the berries were very small and yielded just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The pH levels were pretty low though (between 3.0 and 3.17), so that the wines have a lovely and fresh acidity.
„Having started already at the end of September with our Pinot Noirs, which we picked in only three days, we harvested pretty fast in 2015; in-between and not much more than 14 days after the Pinots,“ says Felix, who aims for ripe and concentrated, yet fresh berries with sound skins—so no wrinkles and surely no rot.
„In the beginning, during the hot summer, we feared the repetition of 2003, but then it was very different,“ Felix says. „We picked early and very selective during the last 14 days, because botrytis came very quick. However, we almost didn’t have any botrytis at all, so we didn’t select any noble sweet wine like some of my colleagues who will sell their hundreds of liters of Beerenauslese for years. I am not a sweet winemaker, anyway…“
In fact, Klaus Peter Keller dot not produce any dry Riesling in Nierstein, whereas Johannes Hasselbach selected many, many noble sweet wines up to TBA for Gunderloch. Keller’s sweet Hipping was picked the same day as Antony’s 10Morgen GG (beginning of October). „Due to organic and respectively biodynamic farming (since 2011), our grapes don’t ripen very late and they also do not develop very high must weights. That’s just perfect for the production of dry wines.“
2015 Riesling Rotschiefer 88 Punkte
The 2015 Riesling trocken Rotschiefer (red slate) opens with a clear, ripe and intense, still nicely untamed and spicy nose; it is pretty attractive, although still reductive in its early youth. Round and fruit-intense, but also piquant and driven by the red slate soil piquancy of the red slope around Nierstein, this is an elegant, well-structured and promising Riesling. It is light to medium-bodied and benefits from both aeration and bottle aging. This is light, piquant and finessed, with some tropical fruit aromas, but always clear, precise and refreshing. This is an excellent Estate Riesling.
2015 Riesling Nierstein 10MORGEN GG 93 Punkte
The golden-yellow colored 2015 10 Morgen Riesling trocken GG comes from 61-year-old vines, which is rarity in the red slope. This Riesling displays a clear, deep, intense and concentrated bouquet of perfectly ripe Riesling berries from a warm and stony terroir. There are dashes of lemon juice on weathered, red slate. Still reductive, this is a full-bodied, fleshy, very intense and elegant, perfectly balanced and mouth-filling dry Riesling. It has great purity, finesse and mineral tension in the long and precise, though still restrained finish. This is great Zehnmorgen to be aged for 15-20 years.
2015 Riesling Nierstein ÖLBERG GG 92 Punkte
The 2015 Oelberg Riesling trocken GG opens with a clear and intense, complex and chalky (!?) nose of perfectly ripe fruits intermixed with discreet speck and rye bread aromas. Full-bodied, round and very elegant on the palate, this is a pure and vital Riesling with less flesh on the mouth compared to the Orbel or the Zehnmorgen, but lots of crushed stones and a rock-licking minerality. The finish is long, pure and salty, revealing a great grip and freshness. This is a silkier-textured Riesling and if you prefer your Riesling from chalky soils, this could be a great compromise.
2015 Riesling Nierstein HIPPING GG 91 Punkte
Sourced in a north-facing plot, the 2015 Hipping Riesling trocken GG opens with a deep, pure and rather coolish bouquet with classic Riesling flavors intertwined with herbal flavors. Though still reductive a few weeks after the bottling, this is a pretty attractive Riesling that is round, rich and smooth on the dense and juicy palate. It is also very mineral, well structured and elegant. Perfectly balanced and moderate in alcohol, the finish is salty, pure, piquant, aromatic, and full of finesse and mineral expression. This has great aging potential.
2015 Riesling Nierstein ORBEL GG 94 Punkte
The 2015 Orbel Riesling trocken GG displays a very clear, precise, smoky/stony and herbal bouquet with ripe, but discreet fruit aromas. The aromatics are very distinctive and fascinating in their purity and elegance. Medium to full-bodied, the Orbel intermixes its ripe and sensual fruit with its crystalline texture, salty purity, lemon-freshness and the lingering mineral acidity. It is a very elegant, finessed and expressive Riesling that combines its seductive ripeness perfectly with the purity of the soil. The finish is clear and stony, again, and the delicate Riesling aromas and spicy slate flavors are lingering for many seconds. A gorgeous Riesling!
2015 Riesling Nierstein PETTENTHAL GG 94 Punkte
Felix Peters continues fermenting and aging his Pettenthal in Burgundian oak barrels; the influence of the barrels becomes less prominent over the years and such is the case with the 2015 Pettenthal Riesling trocken GG. Intensely yellow in color, very precise on the dense and ripe nose, this 2015 is pretty tropical in its fruit expression. But it is also vital and refined in its mineral expression. It is a full-bodied, round and very elegant wine with a nice piquancy. The wine has a long and aromatic finish that reveals power, but also lots of tension and a fine tannin structure. This is perhaps the finest Pettenthal that Peters has produced so far, but it would be a waste of talent drinking this firmly structured and expressive, yet finesse-full and vital Riesling too early.
Chardonnay & Pinot Noir
2014 Chardonnay Nierstein 89 Punkte
Grown on the red slate soils of the Kirchplatte, above the Orbel, the 2014 Nierstein Chardonnay is fermented in used 228-liter barriques. This Chardonnay is a creamy, but vital wine with a medium-weighted body and lots of caramel flavors. It is mineral and fresh, and has a nicely salty finish with good grip. Felix, a passionate Burgundy fan, calls it ‚a hobby.‘ He aims for freshness and structure, so he picked early; due to the low pH level (3.19), the malolactic fermentation went very long, which gives good structure and freshness.
2014 Pinot Noir Nierstein 88 Punkte
The 2014 Nierstein Pinot Noir is sourced from Burgundian clones and mass selections, which were planted in 1986 and 2004 in the Kranzberg and Paterberg. Still a bit reductive, the wine opens with a clear, pure, fresh and flinty bouquet of attractive ripe blackberries, lemon peels and herbal flavors. Full of energy and grip on the satiny palate, this is a pure and expressive Pinot Noir with a lovey, refreshing phenol structure. It has very good aging potential. The is a stimulating Pinot from red slate and the total production is 3,700 bottles. The wine was bottled in May 2016.
2014 Pinot Noir Nierstein „R“ 90 Punkte
The 2014 Nierstein Pinot Noir R comes from another parcel inside the Paterberg, but with a completely different character on the palate than the grand cru.This Pinot Noir offers a lovely and intense, yet very clear, refined and floral-flavored nose, with wild berries and very calcareous (marl) soils. Full-bodied, round and elegant, this is a very juicy and finessed, pure and mineral Pinot Noir with a refreshing acidity and very fine tannins. The finish is clear, long and fresh—full of grip and tension from the stems and skins. This is a really stimulating and expressive Pinot Noir, although it comes form younger vines (selections massales from Burgundy, planted in 2004). This is moderate in alcohol at 12.66%, but high in expression. No new oak here at all.
2014 Pinot Noir Nierstein KRANZBERG GG 92 Punkte
Deep, complex, refined and clear on the nose, with flinty-flavored notes of ripe dark fruits, herbs and melting stones, the 2014 Nierstein Kranzberg Pinot Noir GG opens impressively. Silky, enormously fresh and fine, with a long and salty-mineral finish, this is a very delicate and highly elegant Pinot Noir. This wine has finesse and freshness, and the cooler character that I prefer—at this early moment—to the 2014 Paterberg. From 30-year-old vines grafted with mass selections from Burgundy, and rooting on calcareous loess-loam soils, the Kranzberg is less lush and mighty. It’s maybe more intellectual, but its finesse and stimulation is outstanding. Total alcohol is 12% and total production is 1,200 bottles. This is a wine you should not miss.
2014 Pinot Noir Nierstein PATERBERG GG 92+ Punkte
The 2014 Nierstein Paterberg Pinot Noir GG offers a deep and intense, pure, ripe and fresh dark berry and cassis nose ,with lemon and spicy/herbal terroir flavors. (See my tasting note for the 2013 vintage for information about the Pinot plantings.) Full-bodied, very intense and juicy, this is a rich and mouth-filling, yet very elegant Pinot Noir. It needs a year or two of bottle aging to unfold its Rhenish „Clos de Béze“ character. The finish is powerful and almost lush, and at this early stage, I miss a bit of the purity and coolish tension of the Nierstein R. However, this is deep, powerful, complex and firmly structured Pinot Noir that needs its time. Analytically is it bone dry and moderate in alcohol (just 12.62%). This is surely one of the finest and most promising Pinot Noirs from the Rhine river.
2014 Blaufränkisch Rothe Bach 92 Punkte
The 2014 Rothe Bach Blaufränkisch (served from magnum) shows a clear, ripe and pure bouquet that combines fine mineral flavors with elegant and perfectly ripe dark fruit aromas. Full-bodied, fresh and firm, this is a complex and tension-filled red with purity, energy and tension. Very good ageing potential.
2013 Blaufränkisch Rothe Bach 90+ Punkte
The nose of the stunning 2013 Rothe Bach Blaufränkisch is dark, ripe and very intense but also fresh and herbal flavored; there are skinny blackberry and dark chocolate aromas intertwined with juniper and smoky flavors (also speck) on the nose. This leads to a full-bodied, silky textured, elegant, very intense and juicy, slightly sweet but also fresh, spicy palate of a remarkable purity and concentration. The wine has finely grained tannins and combines its firm structure with ripe and concentrated fruit, but also with freshness and finesse. Selected from 37-year-old vines, this is surely one of the finest Blaufränkisch or Lemberger from Germany.
2012 Blaufränkisch Reserve 93 Punkte
The 2012 Niersteiner Blaufränkisch Reserve (tasted from magnum) is a remarkable German Blaufränkisch. Grown on the red slate soils of the famous Riesling site Pettenthal, this Blaufränkisch offers a lovely, pure, fresh, coolish and meaty bouquet with floral aromas. The palate is full-bodied, silky textured, vital and pure, with intense and mouth-filling fruit, fine tannins and a very good finish. This is one of the finest German Lemberger or Blaufränkisch wines I have tasted so far.